Getting to Know the Different Types of Waves that You Can Find on Your Next Surf Trip
Updated: Jun 27, 2023
As surfers it is in our interest to know all about wave formation. We want to know when and where we will be having our next session so it's no wonder that people that would otherwise have no more interests other than riding waves end up becoming experts oceanographers, meteorologists, geographers, and ocean and marine life conservationists and activists.
This search for the perfect wave leads us into a quest to learn about how waves are formed and one of the things we have to learn about is what is at the bottom of the ocean and how it affects the waves.
In this article series, we will try to explain the different types of existing surf breaks and how they work.
Beach Break: The Guaranteed Dynamic Fun of the Ever-Changing Sandbanks
A beach break refers to a type of surf break where waves break over a sandy ocean floor as opposed to reef breaks.
As storms hit the beach and rip tides rip the bottom of the ocean they drag the sand from one place to another forming sand banks and it's over those sand banks that waves break.
Beach breaks offer a versatile surfing experience suitable for all skill levels.
If you're a beginner, most beach breaks easy and forgiving waves, provide an excellent learning environment. The sandy bottom allows for a softer landing, minimizing the risk of injury. If you are in Portugal, Costa da Caparica and São Julião in Ericeira are good examples of this and so are Jimbaran or Kuta Beach in Bali, Indonesia.
For more experienced surfers, beach breaks like Supertubos and Carcavelos in Portugal, Puerto Escondido in Mexico, or The Boom in Nicaragua, under the right conditions, can offer you the barrels of a lifetime.
Take a look at the video below to have a visual representation of how storms and rip tides shape the sand bottom of the ocean or read about it in Surfer Today.
Reef Break: A Challenge for Advanced Surfers
Reef breaks occur when waves break over a coral or rocky seabed creating sometimes powerful and often hollow waves and other times mellow and slow waves.
In any case when the conditions all align, swell direction and size, wind direction and tide they offer some of the best and most enjoyable rides.
Surfing a reef break wave may require more skill and experience as the take-off zone can be critical and positioning is essential. It requires knowledge of how the wave functions, where to get in and get out, which tide works best, and the potential dangers and hazards.
If you want to see some reef brakes and you are in Portugal you can check spots in Ericeira like Ribeira D'ilhas, Pedra Branca, or Coxos. In Bali, Indonesia, check Uluwatu, Padang Padang or Balagan. In El Salvador check El Sunzal.
The best-known reef brakes, such as Pipeline in Hawaii or Coxos in Portugal are likely to be regulated by locals so don't forget to observe the general rules of behavior in the surf.
Remember to respect the local guidelines and reef conservation efforts when exploring these exceptional surf spots.
While you continue reading about the rest of the breaks if you want to view examples of all break types watch the video below:
Point Break: Long and Powerful Waves
Point breaks occur when waves break along a point or headland, creating long, consistent, peeling waves that travel parallel to the shoreline. These waves are formed as swell wraps around the point, resulting in longer rides. The bottom can be sand, reef, or rock as what defines a point break really is the point or headland that they break around.
Same as in reef breaks, when surfing a point break, it's crucial to understand the wave's behavior and break zone. The take-off spot is often well-defined but in many cases, there will be several sections of the wave where you can takeoff, just remember to look if someone is already on the wave, as again, you want to remember to respect the local guidelines, and general rules of surfing and create good vibes in the water.
Some famous point breaks are Coxos in Ericeira and Buarcos in Figueira da Foz, Punta Roca in El Salvador, Anchor Point in Marrocos, and the most famous Jeffreys Bay (J-Bay), South Africa.
Jetties: A Surfer's Haven of Consistency
Jetties, also known as piers, are man-made structures extending into the ocean. They are designed to control erosion and as a side benefit create a consistent surf break. Jetties can be found in coastal areas where harbors, inlets, or river mouths are present.
Surfing near jetties offers dependable and well-shaped waves, making them popular among surfers of all levels. Jetties can offer shelter from storms and wind so they are usually a good spot to check if for instance the wind direction on a specific day is not favorable but the sand banks are making the wave break behind the jettie.
Slabs: The Thrill of Heavy Barrels
Slabs are characterized by their steep, thick, and powerful waves that break over a shallow and rocky seabed. As the name suggests, the wave breaks over a rock slab and they are dangerous waves that only should be ridden by expert surfers.
Famous slabs include Cave in Ericeira, Mullaghmore in Ireland, and The Box in Australia.
If you are interested in reading more about this madness that is slab surfing, read this.
Making a case for surf guiding in your surf trip's destination
If you are going on a surf trip to unfamiliar destinations, surf guiding can be a valuable resource. Surf guiding services are offered by experienced local surfers who possess in-depth knowledge of the area, including the best breaks, wave conditions, and local customs.
These guides can provide insights into the local surf scene, ensuring you make the most of your surf travel experience. From finding the best waves of the day and for your level, to avoiding crowded lineups, surf guiding adds an extra level of convenience and expertise to your surf trips.
Comments